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One
of the best kept secrets in Honduras is the colonial city of Gracias.
Capital of the department of Lempira, in Western Honduras, Gracias is
accessible from Copan via the Western Highway towards Santa Rosa de Copan.
Just before getting to Santa Rosa there is a highway leading south, that
will take you directly to Gracias in less than an hour, if you are traveling
by car. This City was founded in 1536, by Capt. Juan de Chavez and the
original name was Gracias a Dios. Apparently the Spanish conquistador
had spent several days in this very mountainous area looking for a place
to establish a city, and when he finally found an area flat enough to
build such city, his first words where "gracias a Dios que hemos
hallado tierra llana" (thank God that we have finally found flat
land). Gracias still retains much of its original atmosphere. The Real
Audiencia de Los Confines then the governing council for the protection
of indigenous human rights of Central America and capital of Honduras,
was established here the 16th of April, 1544. The city had some years
of booming growth before being overshadowed by the cities of Antigua Guatemala
and Comayagua.
The department of Lempira takes its name from one of the first Honduran
heroes, Lempira, who gave heroic resistance to the Spanish conquerors
in the early 1500’s. The National hero is remembered each July 12-20
in the city of Gracias, when traditional dances, parades and civic activities
are observed. A fair is set up in the central park, where you can purchase
food and local products. If you plan on visiting Gracias during these
dates, make sure to make a hotel reservation in advance.
Three colonial churches stand within the center of the city, San Sebastian,
Las Mercedes and San Marcos, with a fourth one, Santa Lucia close by in
a neighboring village. The most interesting of these temples is the Church
of “Las Mercedes”, and the Real Audiencia de Los Confines,
that today houses the parochial center. The landscape around Gracias is
extremely mountainous, with heavily forested areas surrounding the city.
Located at the foot of the Montaña de Celaque, highest peak in
Honduras at 2,849m above sea level, and home to the Celaque National Park,
this area boasts one of the largest tracts of cloud forest left in Central
America, and is one of Honduras's most pristine parks. Celaque means “box
of water” in the Lenca dialect. There are 11 rivers and many creeks
that are born in the mountain providing drinking water to all the surrounding
villages includingGracias and El Salvador. Trails are clearly marked in
the park, and there are three different areas with facilities for campers:
the visitor’s center, located at 1,400 m above sea level has two
small cabins, cooking facilities, water and toilets. The second area is
a campground located at 2,000 m above sea level, a good 3 ½ hour
hike from the visitor center and is called Don Tomas. Finally the last
one is another 1 ½ hour hike from Don Tomas and is called El Naranjo.
These last two areas have water and latrines. In addition, there are two
different cabins for rent just below the forest line, on the road to the
visitor’s center. The largest and most complete of the two are Cabanas
Mondragon, the other is managed by the Guancascos restaurant, both are
included in the hotel table of Gracias, featured in this guide.
In the neighborhood of Gracias are several small communities with some
of the largest concentration of Native Indian population in Honduras.
Of these the most significant in the area are the Lencas. There is a good
production of handicrafts in the region, the most outstanding being ceramics
manufactured by the Lencas. The best place to obtain additional information
about Gracias and surroundings is the Guancascos Hotel & Restaurant
located on a hillside next to the San Cristobal Fort, approximately 5
blocks from central park in Gracias. Ask for Froni, she is a Dutch turned
Honduran and is fluent in several languages.
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